Recoating hardwood floors by Adele Joy
Over time, it is inevitable that your hardwood floor will become scratched and dull from general wear and tear. If your hardwood floor has a polyurethane finish, it can usually be recoated without having to sand the entire floor first. Recoating is suitable if the floor is only mildly scratched and worn, the finish has not worn through and it does not have a build up of wax or other chemicals - these will create adhesion problems and cause the floor to reject the new finish, resulting in peeling and flaking.
A recoat is a simple process that involves a thorough cleaning and scuffing (light sanding) to the wood floors' last applied layer of finish. Then a new fresh coat of finish is applied. Recoating will revitalize the shine and get rid of any mild discolorations that haven't penetrated the wood. It rejuvenates your wood floor and extends the life of its protective finish layers. It is best to recoat your floor while it still looks good. This will prolong the life of your floor and reduce the number of times it has to be refinished.
Recoating a hardwood floor should not be confused with refinishing a hardwood floor. Refinishing hardwood floors involves extensively sanding the floor to expose the wood - necessary when there are deep scratches, damage, or if the floor has been waxed.
To determine whether your floor can be recoated, do a small patch test in an inconspicuous area. It is best to test along a wall where cleaners may have accumulated. Thoroughly clean the area using a wood floor cleaner, then lightly sand with fine (120 grit) sandpaper. Wipe away all traces of dust. Apply polyurethane floor finish to the area and wait 24 hours. The finish should be smooth, not rippled or an orange-shell texture. Scratch the surface with moderate pressure using a coin; it shouldn't flake or peel away. If the surface does not pass these tests, the floor will need to be completely sanded and refinished.
If you are unsure whether or not the floor has a wax coating, wipe a small area with a rag dampened in paint thinner. If the thinner removes the existing finish, the floor has a wax coating and will require complete sanding and refinishing.
To recoat your hardwood floor, it first needs to be lightly sanded using a screen disk. Screening disks are open mesh abrasive screens that are used on rotary 300 rpm rotary buffing machines. Floors in good condition can be screened with 120 grit screens. If the floor is in poorer shape, 100 or 80 grit screens can be used. If one of these more aggressive screens is used, it is advisable to re-screen the floor using a 120 grit screen to remove some of the swirl marks. This will ensure a nice smooth surface.
After sanding, the floor should be swept and vacuumed to remove wood dust and dirt. Next, dampen a tack rag with pure mineral spirits and run the rag over the floor to pick up any fine dust and oily residue. Avoid using rags treated with less refined oil-based materials such as kerosene or wax-based treatments - they could leave a residue and cause poor adhesion and peeling.
When applying the finish, it is best to use the same finish that was previously applied to ensure compatibility. If an existing coating is not compatible with the new coating, problems such as peeling can occur. If it is not known what the existing finish is, the safest method of determining compatibility is to select a small unobtrusive area and apply a small patch test. If, after a couple of days, the material does not show any signs of bubbling, peeling, or reduction in film integrity then it should be safe to seal the entire floor.
Once you have chosen your finish, apply it to the edges of the floor with a brush, then coat the rest of the floor using a foam or lamb's wool applicator. Use smooth, even strokes, going in the direction of the grain. Ensure the area is well ventilated.
By committing to the proper care and maintenance of your hardwood floor, including recoating and refinishing when required, you can give your floor a life of up to 300 years.
Resources: http://tamalpaishardwoodfloors.com/http://www.perma.com/
About the Author
I was born in Melbourne, Australia in 1976, and studied science and psychology at Deakin University from 1995 - 1999. I began my career as a research scientist, and then expanded my skills in scientific writing through administrative roles at medical research institutes and hospitals. In 2004, I relocated to beautiful Byron Bay for a sea change and career change, where I now live with my dog, two cats and a parrot.
